Grab a bargain in our Spring Sale and get 25% off your vegeteble plant orders today just enter the code spring at checkout
With Spring Just arround the corner we can now start sowing for bumper Summer harvests of tasty veg, If your not confident in sowing from seed then its worth looking at Buying in young plants from suppliers like us who have done the hard part for you and got the plants to healthy size with a good root sytem ready to plant straight out in your garden or allotment or pots wherever you choose to grow yours and get off to the best possible start.
This odd brassica looks like a sputnik but don’t let this put you off. It has a delicious smell and nutty flavour. More drought resistant than most brassicas, it succeeds where swedes and turnips fail. Green varieties are sown from mid spring to mid-summer for summer crops; hardier purple varieties are sown from mid-summer for autumn and winter crops.
Create a firm seed bed in any reasonably light, fertile, free draining soil. Sow seeds, 1cm (½in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart from late February (under cloches or fleece) to early March, continuing until mid-August in warmer areas.
Sow a little and often, say every three weeks, for a constant supply.
In cooler areas and where soil is heavy clay, early crops can be sown in modules, hardened off and transplanted when the soil warms up, when they are a maximum of 5cm (2in) high.
Thin out seedlings when they are 2.5cm (1in) tall or the first true leaves appear, leaving a final spacing of 15cm (6in) apart.
Keep the soil constantly moist and weed free, watering before the onset of drought.
Net or fleece young plants, to protect against birds and cabbage root fly.
Cabbage root fly: White larvae approximately 5cm (2in) long, feed on the roots just below the soil surface, stunting growth and causing plants to wilt and die.
Remedy: Grow under insect-proof mesh or horticultural fleece. Seedlings are most vulnerable.
Flea beetle: Leaves are covered in small holes and damaged areas turn brown. Seedlings are particularly susceptible.
Remedy: Grow plants under horticultural fleece and keep the soil moist. Water in nitrogen-rich fertilser to help the crop outgrow the pest.
Club root: Roots become swollen and distorted, and leaves become pale and yellow and wilt easily. Plants may die.
Remedy: Improve drainage and add lime to make soil more alkaline. Do not grow in affected soil.
It’s important to harvest when the plants are young and the swollen stem bases are between golf- and tennis ball-size. If you leave them too long they lose their taste and tenderness.
Plants can be harvested until mid-December, and the leaves can also be eaten.
Spring Offer :
Order one of our big Mixed veg packs and get a 10 herb Pack and 6 Heritage Tomato Pack Free worth £34.20
Offer only applies to the 100 and 200 mixed veg packs and 100 and 200 two season mixed veg packs
Just enter spring in the notes about your order box at checkout
If you love Tomatoes then you may want to check out my Tomato website https://tomato-plants-direct.co.uk/
Where you will find over 700 varieties of Tomatoes in just about every size, shape and colour that you can get in Tomatoes as well as Tomatoes we also have on the Tomato website
51 varieties of Aubergines, 33 varieties of Courgettes, 35 Varieties of Cucumber, 86 varieties of Chillies, 62 varieties of Sweet Peppers and a few Basils too
A roast dinner isn’t complete without roast parsnips – and they add a whole new dimension to stews and casseroles too. The good news is parsnips are easy to grow, need little maintenance and can be left in the garden until you’re ready to use them. Sow in spring and you’ll have parsnips in the autumn.
Sow thinly or sow three seeds at 15cm (6in) intervals, 13mm (0.5in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart.
Although it is sometimes recommended to start sowing in February, this can lead to failure. Sowings made in March and April, and even early May, will often do much better. Warm the soil before sowing with cloches or similar; leave these in place until the seedlings have developed two true leaves.
(IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS GERMINATING PARSNIPS THEN WE CAN SOLVE THE PROBLEM FOR YOU WE SELL THEM AS MULTI SOWN PLUGS FROM APRIL THROUGH TO JULY )
Parsnips enjoy an open, sunny site and are easiest on a deep, light soil. When the seedlings are about 2.5cm (1in) high thin out leaving one seedling 15cm (6in) apart.
Keep the soil weed free, hand weeding close to the roots to avoid damage. Keep the soil evenly moist to avoid roots splitting.
Parsnip canker: This orange, brown or purple-coloured rot usually starts at the top of the root. It is mostly caused by drought, over-rich soil or damage to the crown.
Remedy: Sow resistant cultivars such as ‘Avonresister’ and ‘Archer’, improve drainage and avoid damaging the roots. Avoid sowing seeds too early in the year. Protect from carrot fly.
Carrot fly: Carrot fly is a small black-bodied fly whose larvae feed on the roots of carrots. The larvae tunnel into the developing carrots causing them to rot.
Remedy: Once you have an attack of carrot fly, there is nothing you can do to get rid of this pest. Prevention is the best cure, and you should sow thinly and avoid crushing the foliage as you thin out seedlings or hand weed. You can surround your carrots with 60cm (2ft) high barriers made of clear polythene which will exclude the low-flying female flies, or cover the plants with horticultural fleece, such as Enviromesh.
The roots are ready to lift when the foliage starts to die down in late summer or autumn; use a fork to carefully lift them. They can be left in the soil and lifted as required, although lifting a few extra in November will ensure you still have parsnips to eat even if the soil is frozen. Lightly frosted roots tend to produce the best flavour.